Small ice walls offering particular workable forms : icicles, cauliflower, mushroom, air pockets and fragile ice.
DESCRIPTION :
Anchor the tools in these forms being careful not to plant them but rather hook them or wedge them so as not to destroy the ice. The axes often only hold when pulled on downwards using traction.
The experience on this terrain helped favor the evolution of the equipment and gave birth to tools with sharply bent shafts, which allows especially when climbing cauliflower ice, to obtain an optimal placement when compared to traditional shafts where the shaft is more of an obstacle in obtaining a good anchor (fig.83).
When climbing icicles, the axe should be placed by taking little short swings coming from the wrist and not the shoulders or the arms in such that a small hole is made in which the blade is then hooked. Generally speaking this type of ice requires small, precise moves rather than a traditional swing.
It is necessary to practice a lot in order to obtain precision and a feeling for the hold of the tools. On very thin ice or on fragile, thin structures, it may be difficult or even impossible to place or hook both tools. In this case it is possible to hook one pick on the head of the other which allows one to use the strength of both arms to obtain a higher tool placement.
Similarly, crampons have evolved as well, allowing them to be used on these types of ice which is quite different from that for which they were traditionally used, for example : kicking straight on with the foot in order for the front points to penetrate.
The job of the guide or alpine climbing instructor is to progressively bring the student to use his feet better and with more precision. The harder grades due to steepness but above all quality of the ice, requires using crampon techniques similar to those used when climbing with rock shoes. The four front points take on a similar importance as it is often necessary to place them rather than kick them. The inside and outside points are also very important when placing ones weight on the feet.
Lifting the foot onto vague terrain and using the points differently allow one to pull with crampon rather than simply push.
Over time these new possibilities have allowed one to be sure even on fragile difficult structures, they require as do the tools, precision and delicateness. On particularly fragile ice, a simple kick of the foot a bit to muscled can lead to the entire structure tumbling down.
The crampon can also be used for counter balance or by hooking with the heel behind icicles or in holes in the ice. When used for counter balance, the foot only pushes against the ice with the side of the crampons; when hooking, a better hook is possible when using heel points (spurs) (fig.84).
It is also possible to hook using the points under the foot by opening the knee towards the side and pulling the hips into the ice.
Generally speaking, it is by continuous practice that the student is able to improve and adapt to the diverse situations that difficult ice can offers.
The exercise that allows one to obtain a lot of confidence when using crampons, is by climbing (on a top rope) on ice that has many different shapes and forms without using the axes, the hands using only ice holds. Try to count the number of swings one takes with the axes and try to progressively reduce them in order to increase the feeling and the quality of the placement.
From the basic balanced position of the triangle (fig.85),
lower the hips and hang the chest from the highest arm (principal arm), lift the feet using three short steps the first in a plumb line under the highest axe, move up on each leg so that it is straight until one is again in a new triangle position, the face at the height of the head of the axe.
Make these moves fluidly always placing the hips over the weighted foot. Do not interrupt the sequence until one has come back to the basic balanced position (fig.86 to 89).
Only now at this moment, remove the lower tool and place it higher and a bit to the side of the other tool (fig.90).
Take two steps sideways in order to come back to the original position of the basic triangle (fig.91 to 93).
Moving the feet without having correctly centered oneself.
CORRECTION :
If the hips are not moved sufficiently, increase the size of the rocking of the hips by exaggerating the moves.
The first step is not centered or too long, which results in a jerky move and excessive pulling on the axe.
The second tool is placed at the same height as the first.
REASON :
The feet are not high enough. The axe is not placed in a position which allows one to use the full extension of the arm.
CORRECTION :
After the first step which should be short and allows one to start without using too much energy, take bigger second and third steps. The swinging movement from the arm should be done with the arm almost extended.
The axe is placed by hyper extending which doesnt allow one to verify the placement. This position does not allow one to remove the axe, the body is stuck against the wall and already pulling on the tool.
The tools are placed too far apart (fig.94) or in the same vertical axis (fig.95).
In each case progressing will be perturbed both in smoothness and balance.
For other general errors see the errors of exercise # 1 - level 5
Favorable note for progression using the basic triangle :
At first insight this technique can seem more difficult to use, and above all more tiring physically (pulling on only one tool instead of two). However it should be considered that the main reason for fatigue comes mainly from the number of placements and from removing the tools. With the triangle technique the number of swings is cut in half. Additionally, from a safety point of view, having the tools placed at different heights doesnt have the same pullout effect on the ice, thus avoiding the danger of having ice plates break off, which in certain cases can sheer off and cause the climber to fall.
Start from the position of the triangle with he axe placed at face height. From this position, place the other axe higher and to the side in regards to the first one. Lift up the feet by taking steps (the first foot moved should be the one opposite the side of the highest tool), returning thereafter to the starting position (fig.96 to 101).
Using this type of progression one does not return to the basic balanced position, (in a triangle) arm extended.
As seen before in the proceeding exercises, moving the lower limbs should be proceeded by displacing the hips, and followed with as much smoothness as possible. Using this method, even very steep pitches can be climbed quickly and without excessive fatigue. The traditional method (axes at the same height) requires a greater number of swings and a greater physical demand.
VARIATION :
When it is difficult to position ones feet in a triangle, it is interesting to use the corresponding foot and principal hand (higher) only for balance. In this case the final position is not actually the out of balance triangle so to speak, because the effective weight supporting parts are numbered of two : the highest arm and the opposite leg, the other leg is used only for balance.
The center of gravity is obtained by the weight supporting foot (placed crampon) and balance is obtained by the axis between the arm, hips and leg (fig.102 to 106).
Small ice wall three or four meters high approx. 70/75°.
DESCRIPTION :
From the basic position place the tool that is not used for balance, at shoulder height. Take two horizontal steps and position oneself in a triangle and lock off on the tool that was just placed. Remove the higher tool and replace it at the same height as the other tool but not as deep since it is only used for balance (an intermediate placement) when descending the feet. Take three steps down in order to return to the starting balanced position of the triangle. Repeat the sequence by placing the tool that was placed as an intermediate anchor.
ERROR :
When the tools are at the same height adopting a basic position (balanced on four points of support) without respecting the characteristics of the triangle position.
